Rully to Fragnes/Fragnes to St Jean de Losne

Tuesday 17^th June

Rully to Fragnes

8 locks and 8.5km

We left Rully at 9am, our first lock was just around the corner, which was followed in fairly quick succession 7 more locks, through beautiful countryside with views looking back towards Rully.

At lock 31, the lights were red, a boat was coming up so to save floating around we decided to moor up on some large white bollards, which looked suitable for very a large barge bigger than us.  Unfortunately we ended up with the bow temporarily grounded on a hidden rock!  We had to back off, and luckily floated free with a big sigh of relief.

We arrived at Fragnes at 12.20pm, there are lots of places to moor with water and electric.  Suzie and Ulick on Quercy were already moored up, they had arrived a couple of days earlier, so we were able to catch up on each other’s news.

As we had arrived at lunchtime Kev and I went to the restaurant at the port, it’s a great restaurant, we highly recommend it.

In the afternoon we cycled to Chalon-sur-Saône, we made the mistake of not cycling back to the lock we had come through to cross the bridge to the other side of the canal, which is a cycle route into Chalon.  Instead we cycled on the track on our side of the canal to find the track ran out and we had to cycle on the main road, through an industrial estate with articulated lorries overtaking us.  Kev was very annoyed with me for taking this route, for those of you who know him, you'll know what this is like!!  There was a mention of our bikes being thrown into the canal but he did calm down and we still have our bikes!  We eventually got to the town centre feeling hot and grubby.  We took a look at the river Saône, it’s a lovely, wide, gentle flowing river.  We saw two huge hotel boats moored at Chalon, we hoped we wouldn’t see them on our travels up the river on Thursday.

Suzie and Ulick kindly invited us for drinks in the evening, such a shame they are selling Quercy as they are great fun.  Quercy is looking immaculate, as they had finished painting the roof back up on the summit of the canal.  Quercy certainly doesn’t look 5 years old, I am sure they will sell her very quickly with H2O at St Jean de Losne.

Fabulous countryside and views on this section of the Canal du Centre

A huge Hotel Cruiser mooored at Chalon sur Saône

Wednesday 18^th June

Fragnes

Kev and I spent the day on the boat, the morning was spent washing, ironing, cleaning and general boating maintenance.  As the day progressed, more and more boats arrived, it got really crowded and even two big hotel boats moored up. One of the hotel barges was Caprice, now on its way back up the Canal du Centre.  Peppa with Peter and Pauline arrived and they squeezed expertly in front of Rangali while we were having another great lunch at the restaurant.

We found out that there were at least four barges leaving first thing Thursday morning, destination St Jean de Losne, Quercy, Peppa, Celine and us.  There were also loads of hire boats that we thought would be going to Chalon.  We all wanted to get through the last lock on the canal as soon as it opened  at 9am so tomorrow morning was going to be interesting.  Also it was going to be fun trying to find somewhere to moor at St Jean as we would all be arriving quite late and all the quayside moorings would no doubt be gone.

We rang Blanquarts who have moorings at St Jean, they said their port was full at St Jean, but we could moor along side some barges if we entered the canal de Bourgogne, we weren’t sure we’d arrive before the lock closed but we thought we could keep it in mind as a possible option.

In the evening Suzie and Ulick came to ours for drinks, and we had a fun time.

Thursday 19^th June
Fragnes to St Jean de Losne

4 locks and 68km

We woke up early, Barge Celine and Peppa set off at around 7.15am, to get first in the queue for the lock so at 7.30m we decided to go too, we told Quercy and we motored slowly to the first lock together.  We arrived at the lock just after 8am.  There was plenty of space to moor up.  The lock keeper arrived early and Celine and another smaller boat went down first, followed by Peppa and Quercy, then us with a hire boat that had just arrived.  The lock is around 11m deep, with floating bollards, and it goes down very gently.  We left the lock by 9.50am and we joined the river Saône 10 minutes later.  It is such a dramatic difference being on the wide river after being on a narrow, fairly shallow canals for the past 2 ½ months.  We never did catch up the other barges, we arrived at the first big lock on the Saône and saw them already going up, so we had to wait for it to empty again for us to enter.

We only had two huge river locks to contend with, it all went fine, and we saw a few large commercial barges on the river, but we had an easy, but tiring journey, arriving at St Jean just before 5pm.  The river is beautiful, very easy to navigate and the weather was perfect.

We had our VHF radio on channel 10 to make sure we could hear any ship to ship conversations. When we were getting close to St Jean, we heard over the VHF that Peppa and Celine were struggling to get a mooring on the river.  So we telephoned Blanquarts again to see if there was still space for us on the canal de Bourgogne, there was, so we then rang the lock keeper to ask him to prepare the lock as we were about 10 minutes away.  We came through our last lock of the day and moored alongside a barge that was moored alongside two other barges.  It’s a bit of a scramble to get off the boat climbing over three other barges but at least we have a safe berth.  Peppa and Celine, came through the lock after us as they weren’t successful in mooring up on the river and they went on a bit further along the canal to moor up.

We are moored up with loads of boats of different shapes and sizes, most of them are having work done on them, there are two boat yards here, with two very good chandleries. They sell all the canal guidebooks, and we even saw the guides for sale in a newsagent in the town.  St Jean de Losne is a big boating centre and a crossroads of two canals (the Canal de Bourgogne, the canal de Rhône au Rhin) and and the river Saône is a major route.

We have decided to change our route to Strasbourg and go via the Canal Rhône au Rhin.  We will be completing a big circle and returning to St Jean we think by the end of August to travel along the canal de Bourgogne to our winter mooring at Migennes.  We are waiting for a package to arrive at the post office, it wasn’t there when we went this morning, so hopefully it will be there tomorrow.

 

Canal du Centre the final lock
34b lock is 10.76 meters deep
busy with boats all over an hour early!

My view looking through the end of the lock to the canal below

Exiting the lock
Goodbye Canal du Centre, you are a very enjoyable canal

One of the big commercials we saw on the Saône

Our first big lock, it makes us feel very small

This cruiser gives the lock some proportion
they are about half way into the lock

Bollards are pretty easy to latch onto

Going up, the locks fill very smoothly, but its best to keep way back from the front gates

Arriving at St Jean de Losne

Our crowded berth on the canal de Bourgogne

Montceaux to Blanzy-Blanzy to St Julien-St Julien to St Léger to Santernay-Santernay to Rully

Wednesday 11^th June

Montceau-Les-Mines to Blanzy

2 locks 4km

We did a very short day today to get to Blanzy, which is a small town with a free mooring with electric and water.  Before we set off we phoned Peter and Pauline on Peppa, who were moored at Blanzy to confirm there was space for us on the small quay.

We were in two minds whether to stop after the first lock to do some shopping at a massive Leclerc supermarket but we wanted to make sure we were able to moor up at Blanzy, so we carried on.  When we arrived at Blanzy the space was still there which was perfect.  We were going to cycle back to the supermarket to do some shopping but Pauline offered to take us in her car.  They have been car hopping along the canal. The Leclerc supermarket was ‘super’, really big, we could have spent hours there! 

In the afternoon another barge arrived, it was a 55ft Piper called Quercy.  We moved our boat along a little and they squeezed in.  After introductions and standing in the searing heat for far too long, we invited Sue and Ulick onboard for a cool drink.  After talking all things ‘Piper” and life onboard a barge in France they also told us that they have their barge for sale.  It is only 5 years old so it would be perfect for anyone wanting a newish Piper barge and one that is already in France.  They are taking it to St Jean de Losne to the brokers called H2O.  If you search for the barge use the name Piper rather than Quercy to find it.

We had to use our air-conditioning in the bedroom to cool it down before going to bed, it’s been a very hot day.  There was another thunderstorm in the afternoon, which did help to clear the air a little.

Leaving Montceau marina

Blanzy with Peppa and Quercy

 Thursday 12^th June

Blanzy to St Julien-sur-Dheune

15 locks 15km

Quercy had booked the lock for 9am, we then left and Peppa followed on after us.  We used our VHF radio to keep in contact with Peppa and we were able to let them know, when we arrived at St Julien, that there was space for them. We had 7 locks going up and then 4 locks going down.  Two of down locks were deep, over 5m but they had floating bollards to make life easy.  One of the deep locks created a big swell in the lock as the gates opened; it pushed the boat backwards.  Luckily we still had our ropes on the floating bollards, usually when we see the gates opening we cast off ready to leave the lock as quickly as possible. 

It is another good mooring at St Julien, but some of the quay is shallow, the up stream end.  There is a big sign warning where it’s shallow but the sign hidden behind a big tree!

Yet another thunderstorm in the afternoon, but it was over pretty quickly.  Peter and Pauline invited us over for drinks, and we got some more great tips on places to moor along the Canal du Centre.  They have been boating for years, and had their barge built to Peters design.  They have decided to sell ‘Peppa’ a 60ft barge after many years barging.  

Peppa is for sale on the Apolloduck website
http://barges.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=227216

St Julien sur Dheune with Peppa

Friday 13^th June

St Julien-sur-Dhuene to St Léger-sur-Dheune

10 locks and 12km

We woke up to another glorious day.  We felt a little jaded this morning as we had supped too much wine last night with Peter and Pauline.

Peppa left at 9am and we then left 10 minutes later.  We had a great trip to St Ledger-sur-Dheune, going down towards the Soane valley.  We found that some of the locks did the same thing with the swell of water when the lock gates opened.

We kept our VHF radios on again today, and Peppa was able to warn us of a barge coming the other way, no problem as there was plenty of space when we met.  All the locks were ready for us so we had a great trip arriving at St Léger by 12.30.  We moored up behind Peppa and then Kev and I walked back to the town for a lunch at a lovely canal side restaurant by the bridge.

We then came back to the boat to read books and a little cleaning, and a little snoozing.

Beautiful scenery

A great canal side restaurant at St Léger

 Saturday 14^th June

St Léger-sur-Dhuene to Santenay

4 locks 7.5km

We left our mooring at 9am, the first lock was a short distance from the town but it wasn’t switched on, there were no lights on show, we tried the telephone number for the control centre of the canal du centre, and we just got an answer phone.  So I hopped off the boat and went to the lock to press the red button to speak to someone on the intercom.  There was no answer, but eventually the lock traffic lights switched on and the lock went into action. 

We arrived at Santenay around 11.30, and there was space for us.  It’s a really lovely mooring, trees either side, the canal is quite narrow here, and there are glorious views across to the town and the hills with vineyards.  Santenay is a famous wine-producing village, with over 30 producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.

We went for a cycle ride to the village, not far, and we found ourselves at Chateau de Santenay, at a beautiful moated chateau.  We sampled a couple of chardonnays, and purchased the one we liked the best, (we actually prefer the sauvignon blanc grape but felt we should buy something!) 

This evening the hotel barge, Caprice, that was moored up at St Léger-sur-Dhuene came past us, the canal here is very narrow but all was fine, he went past very slowly.  After the hotel had gone by we looked back along the canal and it looked like a Le Boat hire boat was leaving the mooring to follow the hotel barge with two Loco (hire) boats following.  What actually was happening was that the Le Boat had been moored up on pins but as the Hotel Barge went by it pulled it off it’s mooring.  We leapt to see what we could do, along with another couple, who are also moored up here on their cruiser.  The Le Boat was floating free on the other side of the canal out of our reach.

The two Loco hire boats were going to just motor on past but we managed to get them to understand that we needed them to help us get this Le Boat moored up.  So with none of us speaking anyone else’s language we managed to secure the Le Boat back up but this time on bollards.  We don’t know where the people who have hired this boat are, we did see a taxi turn up earlier today and pick up two ladies with a load of luggage, maybe they didn’t like boating and decided to leave their Le Boat by the side of the canal! 

1st lock of the day

Cycle ride into Santernay,  a lovely village

Just above Santernay

Caprice the hotel boat, coming past very slowly

The Le Boat hire boat floating free after the hotel boat had past

Sunday 15^th June

We decided to stay moored here at Santernay and cycle to Chagny to a big Sunday market they have there every week.  We left early by 8.30am and had a very enjoyable 5km ride along by the canal.  The market was big, covering at least two streets.  We were pleased we didn’t moor at Chagny, not a nice mooring at all, looked very industrial.  Caprice the hotel barge was there, and we checked with them when they were moving on and where their next mooring would be.  They were going at 10.30 so they wouldn’t pose us a problem tomorrow.

We cycled back and we had the mooring to ourselves, the barge moored behind us hasn’t had anyone on board since we arrived Saturday, and the Le Boat hire boat is still moored up, no one onboard.  The canal cycle way is really busy with cyclists and people on roller blades.  It was a beautiful sunny day with a cooling breeze.  I sunbathed on the roof and read a whole paperback from cover to cover, very relaxing.  Kev did some fishing a caught a couple of Catfish, he was very pleased with himself.

There have been quite a few hire boats going through so we are happy not to have been moving today.  Best to keep out of their way!

Chagny Sunday Market, worth going to

Beautiful cycle ride from Santernay to Chagny and back

We threw it back into the canal

Monday 16^th June

3 locks and 9km

We set off at 8.15am as we had 7km to cover before our first lock.  We got to the lock at 9am and Quercy, who had gone by us yesterday, were waiting for the lock to open.  The lock set into action a 9.10am.  Once they had gone through we followed going through 3 down locks locks to arrive at a mooring spot just after lock 26 so that we could cycle into Rully.  

The wine growers in Rully have been producing wine for over four centuries.  We cycled into the village get to the bolangerie by 12 noon before it closed for lunch, and we then cycled around the beautiful village; cycling up to the medieval castle but this is only open to the public in July-August.  The wine caves were all closed for lunch so we are going to cycle back this afternoon to try some Crémant de Bourgogne, a champagne look a like they are very famous for.

Chagny, not a nice mooring

Every lock and bridge has evidence of  Caprice the hotel boat having been through
I am surprised if she has any paint left at the end of the trip!

Rully Chateau

A view looking back down to Rully
Well worth a cycle ride

Paray to Génelard/Génelard to Montceau Les Mines

We went out late on Sunday and took more photos of Paray at night

Our mooring at Paray, loads of room

Monday 9^th June

Paray-le-Monial to Génelard

7 locks 20km

We left Paray at 9am for the lock just along from our mooring and we arrived at Génelard at 1pm.  We had a really great trip, beautiful countryside; friendly toots and waves from drivers on the country road that follows by the side of the canal.  It was quite busy (compared to Paray!) at Génelard with about 5 boats and another two moored up while we were there.  It was another very hot and humid day and we had a thunderstorm late afternoon, which cleared the air somewhat.  

Peter and Pauline on Peppa a dutch barge were already moored there, we met them in Roanne, so we caught up with in the evening over drinks.  They have been to Strasbourg in their 60ft barge via the Canal du Rhõne au Rhine and the Grand Canal d’Alsace.  It was a route we had been considering but we were worried about rules and regulations on the Grand Canal d’Alsace (a canalised section on The Rhine), but they assured us that our boat (also 60ft in length) is ok, and they gave us great tips on good moorings.  So we may well go that way.

You have to pul the rope to start the locking procedure on the automatic locks

Our mooring at Génelard, we are the boat in the distance,
too far away to reach the electrics but not a problem

Tuesday 10^th June

Génelard to Montceau-les-Mines

7 locks and 18km

We set off again at 9am, our first lock was just in front of us so no distance to travel.  The lights went green for us to enter dead on 9am. 

All went smoothly all day until we got to Montceau-les Mines.  We arrived around 12.15pm.  Our canal guidebook told us about the lift bridges in the town.  It said we had to pull a pole hanging in the middle of the canal.   We’ve used this method before but we were a little confused when we saw a blue rope dangling in the middle of the canal.  The only problem was that is looked too high for me to reach so we didn’t stop to pull it thinking it can’t be what the guidebook was talking about.  So we carried on along the canal round the corner to the first lift bridge.  There was a red light showing and no obvious pole or rope to pull.  On the Canal du Centre the locks don’t close for lunch so we thought maybe these lift bridges don't either.  We thought maybe we should have tried harder to reach the blue rope we had passed so we backed up around the corner, about 300m to see if I could reach the blue rope.  I couldn’t, it was far too high and blowing in the breeze, so we went back to the bridge and hovered, thinking maybe they did close the lift bridges for lunch.  Peter and Pauline on Peppa caught us up; they had left Génelard after us this morning.  They told us that the lift bridges closed for lunch and we didn’t need to pull any ropes!  So we waited until 1pm and hey presto, the bridges went into action.

We were fortunate to get a mooring at the Port du Plaisance, on a floating pontoon, at the end on a hammerhead.  There are three floating pontoons, so three hammerheads, (the only part of the pontoon that would be suitable for our length of boat), we got the last available one which was great.

We had a snack lunch in a cafe, it was still very hot and humid so after a quick wander around the high street near our mooring we then went back to the boat.  Thinking we'd go out and explore when it was a little cooler.

We have had more thunderstorms this afternoon and rain has continued this evening so it will certainly make it cooler tomorrow.  So we didn't get our look around the town today.  We haven't decided if we are staying another day here or moving on, we'll see what the weather is like.  

A beautiful canal

The first lift bridge in Montceau-les-Mines finally lifiting

The second lift bridge

Our mooring at the port du plaisance at Montceau-les-Mines