Rangali Adventures: Paris via Haute Seine to St Mammes

Monday 19^th August

We spent three nights in Paris and had a wonderful time, did lots of walking, did some of the sights, some shopping (householdy things for the boat) and we ate and drank lots!

We left Port du Arsenal Paris at 9am Sunday to travel up The Seine aiming for Melun, we got to the last lock of the day too late to go through but luckily we were able to moor up, with some adjusting to the fenders to keep us from bashing the wall during the night. We were also lucky as a massive barge turned up just after us, we wouldhave had to go through with them if the lock was still open. They had to moor up overnight too, but luckily they went off early this morning so we didn’t have to share the lock with them.

Leaving a stormy looking Paris behind as we leave Port du Arsenal

Busy Moorings on The Seine Paris

A gathering of Cormorants

We shared a lock with this beast, we'd already entered the lock, and then we heard him VHF radio to say he was approaching, we had to wait what seemed like ages, we didn't know how big he was going to be, we were hoping it was a small barge but it was huge, and empty so looks bigger.

Our mooring Sunday night at Lock 4 Vives Eaux,
the lamp post was very handy as our stern bollard. The next bollard was too far way to tie up to.

On Sunday we had a fairly quiet day on the commercial barge front, I think as it was Sunday, and we were lucky enough to miss being held up with the 1 hour lunch break the locks take on a Sunday. One lock we went into we were on our own, but the locks gates didn’t close and we realised the lock was waiting for another boat. This massive barge came around the corner, and entered the lock, it was enormous, made us look tiny, it was really daunting seeing it enter the lock and slide past us. This lock was called Coudray, lock number 5 and had a vicious backwash, it was like being at sea, there were signs up warning you of it. I am really glad we managed to get two lines attached, its not always possible.

Today was very different; it was and still is really busy, barges large and humungous! At one point two massive barges overtook us. We could see them from a very long distance behind us and they caught us up so quickly, they were empty, so are able to travel over twice the speed we can. I took some video footage and maybe when we are back in UK I will try and upload it. The photos don’t show how big they are or how quickly they move.

The last lock we were in wasn’t nice, luckily we were on our own, but as soon as the gates shut, the lock keeper started the fill, we only just managed to get a bow line on, these locks are quite vicious and create a large wash as they fill, so its best to keep way back when you moor up.

We are now moored at St Mammes on a very nice floating pontoon, with electric and water but it is very choppy, so many barges going through, at speed. We are going to stay here two nights and visit Moret-sur-Loing by bike tomorrow.

When we paid for our mooring this afternoon, we were asked where we were heading. When we said Auxerre, we were told a lock at Sens on the River Yonne was closed until October. Not one of the planned closures! So we are now having to go to Auxerre a very long route along the Canal du Loing/Canal de Briare/Canal Lateral a la Loire to Decize then up to Auxerre via Canal du Nivernais. This will take 97 cruising hours, 422 km and 187 Locks!

The river wasn’t pretty yesterday leaving Paris, plus it was a grey rainy day. Today was much prettier, with some lovely riverside properties and the sun was shining which always helps.

As a point of interest to anyone reading this wanting to know good mooring points on The Seine, Melun had loads of town moorings, no one there at all when we went past at 9.40am. The mooring bollards were for normal sized boats, not miles apart as usual for the large peniches.